Gas Stove Burner Not Lighting?
Gas Stove Troubleshooting GuideYou turn the knob. You hear the click. But nothing happens. If your gas burner won’t light, you’re stuck with a cold cooktop and a frustrating mystery. This is one of the most common stove issues we handle across Orlando and Central Florida — and luckily, it’s often fixable without replacing the whole appliance.
Why Is My Freezer Cold but the Fridge Is Warm? Real Causes & How to Fix It
Your freezer is doing its job. The ice cream stays solid, the frozen vegetables are rock hard — but your milk is turning sour, and everything in your fridge feels a few degrees too warm. If your freezer is cold but the fridge isn’t, it can be confusing. But this is a classic symptom of a cooling system imbalance, and it’s a problem we see regularly in homes across Orlando and Central Florida.
When this issue shows up, it’s usually not the compressor or refrigerant that’s failed. In most refrigerators, the freezer actually does the heavy lifting, and the fridge section cools by borrowing cold air through a controlled airflow system. If that system gets blocked, restricted, or stops working properly, you’re left with a perfectly functioning freezer — and a warm fridge full of spoiled food.
Here’s a breakdown of the most likely causes, how they happen, and what needs to be checked.
1. Blocked or Frozen Air Vents
Most fridges share cold air from the freezer to the fresh food section through a vent or damper, usually controlled by a thermostat or sensor. If that vent becomes clogged — either with frost, ice, or food debris — cold air can’t circulate properly into the fridge.
Signs:
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Freezer cold, fridge warm or room temperature
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Frost or ice buildup around the back wall of the freezer
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Items near the vent in the fridge feel slightly cooler, but the rest of the space is too warm
This is a common issue in humid areas like Central Florida, where moisture in the air condenses and freezes quickly inside the freezer, especially during power flickers or long defrost cycles.
Fix:
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Empty the freezer and fridge
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Unplug the unit for 12–24 hours with doors open to allow all ice buildup to melt
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Clean vent areas and inspect airflow paths for blockages
In severe cases, a failed defrost system may need professional attention (see #4 below).
2. Malfunctioning Evaporator Fan Motor
The evaporator fan, located inside the freezer, is responsible for moving cold air through the vents and into the fridge. If this fan fails, even if the freezer is cold, that cold air won’t reach the fridge section effectively.
Clues:
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Freezer stays cold, but fridge gradually warms up
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You don’t hear the fan spinning when the doors are closed (press the door switch to check)
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Ice buildup around the fan housing or no airflow in the fridge even when the compressor is running
This issue is common in both top-freezer and side-by-side models, especially older units or those that haven’t had regular maintenance.
Fix:
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A technician can test the evaporator fan motor for continuity
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If seized, noisy, or completely dead, replacement is usually needed
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Ice buildup around the fan housing must be defrosted and cleared fully
3. Faulty Damper Control Assembly
The damper is a small door or flap that regulates how much cold air from the freezer enters the fridge. If it gets stuck in the closed position — due to ice buildup, mechanical failure, or electrical issues — the fridge won’t get enough cool air to stay cold.
Symptoms:
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Fridge warms up slowly over time, especially on higher shelves
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Freezer is very cold but airflow into the fridge is weak
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You hear the fan running, but the fridge never cools properly
Some dampers are electronically controlled, while others are mechanical. In either case, a failure will result in uneven temperatures and poor performance.
Fix:
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Locate and test the damper (usually behind the fridge’s rear interior panel)
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If stuck closed, it may need to be manually opened or replaced entirely
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In high-humidity areas like Orlando, dampers may seize more easily from moisture buildup or dust
4. Defrost System Failure (Ice Blocking Airflow)
Your fridge runs a defrost cycle several times a day to melt frost on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater, defrost thermostat, or defrost control board fails, ice builds up rapidly on the coils. That ice restricts airflow from the freezer to the fridge — even though the freezer remains cold.
What you’ll notice:
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Fridge compartment gets warmer day by day
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Freezer has heavy frost on the back panel
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Water may leak during brief defrost attempts
This is one of the most common long-term issues in Central Florida homes where ambient humidity is high and defrost cycles are essential to balance performance.
Fix:
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Full defrosting can temporarily solve the issue
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Long-term fix requires identifying and replacing the faulty defrost component
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A technician can test the heater, thermostat, and control board for continuity
5. Temperature Control Thermostat or Sensor Failure
If the thermostat that controls the fridge section fails, the control board may not trigger the fan or damper to send cold air into the fresh food area. The freezer stays cold because it’s still running — but the fridge warms up due to lack of regulation.
Symptoms:
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Inconsistent fridge temperature despite setting changes
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Fridge feels slightly cool but never reaches target temp
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Display may show incorrect readings or error codes
Digital control thermostats are common in newer units, especially French-door and side-by-side models — and they’re vulnerable to power surges, another common issue during Florida storms.
6. Dirty Condenser Coils
If the condenser coils are coated in dust, pet hair, or grease, your refrigerator can’t release heat efficiently. That reduces overall cooling capacity and may cause the fresh food section to warm up — even if the freezer is still doing okay.
This issue is especially common in homes with pets, or in Florida homes where the fridge is located near a garage, patio, or lanai.
Fix:
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Pull the fridge away from the wall
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Use a coil brush or vacuum attachment to remove all buildup from underneath or behind the unit
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Do this every 6–12 months to avoid compressor strain
7. Improper Fridge Loading or Blocked Vents
Sometimes the issue isn’t mechanical — it’s about airflow. If your fridge is overloaded, especially with large items pressed against the back wall or top shelf, it can block vents and prevent cold air from circulating.
This is common in shared households, vacation rentals, or families that pack the fridge full, especially during the summer months or holidays.
What to do:
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Keep vents (usually located along the back or top of the fridge section) clear of tall containers and boxes
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Allow space between items to ensure airflow
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Don’t stack food too tightly against the top shelf or sides
Don’t Ignore a Warm Fridge — Act Early
A fridge that’s too warm can lead to food spoilage, bacterial growth, and wasted groceries — even when the freezer seems fine. The longer you wait to address the issue, the more strain you place on the cooling system.
And in Florida homes, where high temperatures and power fluctuations are common, early action is the best way to avoid costly repairs or full appliance replacement.
Need Professional Fridge Repair in the Orlando Area?
If your freezer works but your fridge isn’t holding temperature, the problem isn’t always obvious — but it is fixable. At ARS Repair Inc., we specialize in diagnosing and repairing cooling issues for all major refrigerator brands. From fans and sensors to airflow problems and defrost failures, we get to the root of the problem — fast.
Don’t let warm milk and wilted veggies catch you off guard. Book your fridge repair today.
